For a crocheted shawl, the right yarn is first and foremost the one recommended by the pattern, because the dimensions, quantity, and drape are calculated based on it. If you want to change it, choose a yarn with a similar thickness, i.e., with a similar yardage per weight, and check with a sample. Within these limits, the choice depends on three things: the season, how it feels against the skin, and how you want the shawl to fall over your shoulders.
The most commonly used fibers and how they behave
- Wool: warm, elastic, holds its shape well. It is the classic choice for an autumn and winter shawl.
- Merino wool: finer and softer, also suitable for those who find regular wool rough on the neck. The Woolmark Company explains why it is suitable for skin contact (in English).
- Alpaca: very warm and soft, with a beautiful drape. It is less elastic than wool and tends to stretch with its weight.
- Cotton: cool, suitable for the transitional seasons and summer. It weighs more, is not very elastic, and highlights every stitch.
- Linen and silk: light, with a fluid drape. Excellent for summer shawls, though slightly more difficult to work with.
- Blends: combine the qualities of multiple fibers, for example, wool and cotton for a transitional season shawl.
- Acrylic: affordable and easy to wash, but less breathable than natural fibers.
Thickness: reading the label
On the label of every skein, you will find two valuable pieces of information: how many meters it contains per a certain weight (for example, 100 m per 50 g) and which crochet hook size is recommended. They are the most reliable way to compare two yarns. In Europe, the label must also indicate the composition with the fiber names established by Regulation (EU) No. 1007/2011. If the pattern indicates a yarn you cannot find, look for one with similar yardage per gram and recommended crochet hook.
In general, the thicker the yarn, the larger the crochet hook and the faster the work grows. With a crochet hook around size 6, medium-thick to thick yarns are usually used. To help you navigate the thickness categories, you can use the standard yarn weight system from the Craft Yarn Council, with the recommended crochet hook sizes for each (in English).
Drape and weight
A shawl should rest on your shoulders without being stiff. The drape depends on the fiber, the thickness, and how dense the work is: the same yarn worked with a slightly larger crochet hook gives a softer and airier fabric. Also consider the weight: a large shawl, especially if it has fringe, can become heavy with dense fibers like cotton.
Color and workmanship
Solid colors highlight the stitches and any openwork. Gradient or mélange yarns create a more dynamic effect, but can obscure an elaborate design. For the fringe, a contrasting color adds character to the garment; choose two colors that look good even up close, for example by making a small sample with both.
How much yarn to buy
The pattern indicates the quantity needed for the planned dimensions. Two practical tips:
- Buy all the skeins from the same dye lot (the batch number on the label): different batches of the same color can have slightly different shades.
- Keep one extra skein for the sample, for any modifications, and, if the shawl includes them, for the fringe.
Replacing the yarn without surprises
- Compare the yardage per gram and recommended crochet hook with the original yarn.
- Calculate the quantity in meters, not in skeins: skeins from different brands have different lengths.
- Work a 10 × 10 cm sample and compare it with the one in the pattern (how to read the pattern is explained in this guide).
- If the sample does not match, change the crochet hook size and try again.
Odette Shawl, the first BonTon pattern, is made with Mondial Lana Soave and a size 6 crochet hook, for a triangular shawl measuring approximately 180 × 100 cm, excluding fringe. In the PDF you will find the quantities needed to reproduce it. You can also choose different colors and make it your own. The other models are in the pattern catalog.
Frequently asked questions
What yarn should I use for a summer crocheted shawl?
For a summer shawl, cotton, linen, silk, or blends with these fibers are suitable, because they are cool and breathable. Worked with a slightly larger crochet hook, they give a light and airy fabric.
Can I use a different yarn from the one indicated in the pattern?
Yes, if you choose a yarn of similar thickness and check the sample. Compare the yardage per gram and recommended crochet hook on the label and calculate the quantity in meters, not in the number of skeins.
What is a dye lot and why is it important?
A dye lot is the batch of yarn dyeing, indicated on the label with a number. Skeins of the same color but from different dye lots can have different shades, so for a whole garment, it is best to buy them all from the same dye lot.
Which crochet hook is needed for a wool shawl?
The one indicated by the pattern, which in turn depends on the thickness of the yarn. As a reference, check the recommended size on the yarn label and verify with the sample.